Angela Han ’28 Spent 44 Hours Wandering in Rhodes, Greece

Rhodes, Greece, is known as a destination for weeklong beach holidays due to its endless sunshine, but the island’s greatest pleasure may be far simpler: getting lost. With only 44 hours to explore, I arrived with no itinerary or reservations and discovered a city that rewards wandering.

Step through the medieval gates and the modern world dissolves into shaded alleys framed by stone walls built centuries ago. With layers of Byzantine, Ottoman, and Italian influence, Rhodes Old Town remains one of Europe’s best-preserved walled cities and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At first glance, the maze of narrow streets can feel overwhelming, with paths appearing and disappearing at random. Glance at a map once to orient yourself, then put it away and succumb to curiosity. 

The largely pedestrian town encourages roaming, and before long I began navigating by instinct, discovering quiet courtyards and hidden passageways without ever retracing my steps. Because most major sights sit within walking distance, Rhodes’ Old Town proves that immersion does not depend on time, but the willingness to throw oneself into the experience.

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SD Fotografie/Adobe Stock

We started our journey of Old Town at Hippocrates Square, where cafés and restaurants spill into the plaza and travelers gather around at the fountain at Plateía Ippokrátous. Naturally, we found ourselves using this as an anchoring point to allow exploration to unfold easily. Before attempting to visit landmarks or ruins, we started with food. Just a minute’s walk away sits ο Πρόεδρος - Proedros, an unassuming spot serving some of the most satisfying gyros in Old Town. Whether eaten quickly at a high-top table or enjoyed as a relaxed meal in the back, the combination of crisp meat, fresh vegetables, and warm pita captures the comforting simplicity of Greek street food at its best. Equally satisfying at lunch or midnight, I found it perfectly positioned for returning between explorations. 

The charm of Old Town reveals itself between major tourist destinations. Without a fixed plan, we started down a shaded alley branching from Hippocrates Square and followed whatever caught our attention. Small shops line the streets, each with its own personality, and an afternoon disappears easily between browsing handmade goods and souvenirs. Along the way, we paused for freddo cappuccinos, Greece’s signature iced coffee, and sought relief from the Mediterranean heat with a scoop (or two) of Greek yogurt and honey gelato. 

Some unexpected highlights from the trip were the cats roaming about freely and an encounter with Riccardo, a friendly parrot perched outside on restaurant decor and signs. 

As sunset approached, we oriented ourselves back toward Hippocrates Square to head upward. The rooftop of Archipelagos Restaurant provided views of the Sea Gate while the ancient walls glowed gold in the evening light. With dishes such as the lamb shank kapama or slow-cooked beef stifado, ordering from the “Traditional Greek” section of the menu felt less like dining out and more like settling into a home kitchen after a long day of exploration. 

After midnight, Rhodes takes on a new rhythm. The narrow streets surrounding Hippocrates Square shifts its focus to the bars and open-air tables as the evening stretches into early morning. Daytime sightseeing and working gives way to conversations as locals linger and travelers slow down after thousands of steps. The distinction between visitor and regular quickly fades, and in true Greek hospitality, it’s easy to find yourself recognized by name or welcomed back with a familiar smile in just a few stops. 

As the night progresses, the bars are one of the easiest places to encounter local culture firsthand. Invigorated by our curiosity for their culture, we found ourselves with an endless supply of ouzo drinks offered by bartenders throughout town. Under European Union law, ouzo is a protected designation of origin product that can only be produced in Greece and Cyprus. This fiery anise spirit offers a distinctively local taste.

When daylight came, we were not quite ready to leave but ready for a change of pace beyond the walls. We exited Old Town near the ruins of the Church of the Virgin Mary of the Burgh and followed the coastline toward Elli Beach. The transition from medieval stone to open sea happened gradually, revealing the other side of Rhodes: clear water, warm breeze, and the relaxed pace of island life.

My trip to Old Town proves that immersion does not depend on duration. In less than two days, I found history, food, and conversation offered by the city and its surroundings not by trying to see everything, but by allowing the city to reveal itself. In the end, what has stayed with me most isn’t any single landmark, but the beautiful experience of letting a place unfold on its own terms.